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[RoosterJaws]

Still looking fun outback in Indialantic. Winds holding off so far.

[big rick]

It was super fun this morning
Winds kinda killed playa but there's still a wave for sure

[9AMdp]

go!

[big rick]

Work today, surf tomorrow
Yay!

[big rick]

  Ponce

[Chappy Jennings Army]

I am lucky. It could be that I am insanely rigid. My wife says that I am the most stubborn person she has ever met.

I was miserable and at some point I was miserable surfing. I never could imagine paddling out and not being happy but I was just that way. I hated my surfboard and I hated not enjoying myself.

Thankfully one recent day, I stumbled out of the water at Ponce and an old buddy approached me. Some of the conversation was him telling me that my board sucked. It was not fun.

Then he began to seriously speak to me about a lot of things and not long afterwards he was carving out the board he envisioned me riding.

Over the past year, I stopped going out in Cocoa Beach. I hated that too! The waves would be blown out and my crap board would make me work to ride the dribblers. But the other day, I saw the pics that Dan posted and I wanted to be back at the streets. So yesterday I went south and was greeted with clean waves that were super fun. My new board handled it all...and even the close outs were fun. I left smiling.

Here is to a summer of fun waves and for the stoke that surfing can give. (Board dependent).

Why am I lucky? Because when things were sour and they really were...I never gave up. Some are not as lucky and they turn a corner and sink even lower. I am also lucky that I had some people that never gave up on me either.

Here is to more waves on the horizon...minus the trench and chop!

Have fun at Ponce, Rick...I guarantee it will be good.

[RoosterJaws]

"Here is to a summer of fun waves and for the stoke that surfing can give. (Board dependent)."

I always leave the surf with a smile on my face.. A bad day of surfing beats... you know the rest. To add to the crap board part though. I am in route to getting the "older guy, short board" I just don't have the pop like I used to. I'm adding about six or seven liters to my next board and making it an all around short board to handle the 90% of blown out surf we get here. Something in the lines of a Lost Puddle Jumper.

I missed the prime times to surf during this last swell due to work, but looks like CB, NSB, & Jax got the goods.

[Chappy Jennings Army]

Normally I fall under the happy to be in the water philosophy as well. But when your trusty board has turned yellow and you bring your board to work (you work 75 feet from the beach and you leave every day when it is dark) and the few times you get out the waves have gone from fun, clean 3 foot surf to waist high wind chop; you tend to get frustrated. Especially that I could look out the hotel window and watch the waves drop out. It was all adding into the big picture of stress. Plus the multitude of other issues.


As for that awful board...I think if I lived at Lennox Head or if waves still broke in the port...It would have been fun to use. Sadly, our waves do close out and you have to be quick to get in some turns. Now with a normal board with some hidden volume, life is grand again!


So yeah, I think your next board will be a winner, Rooster and it will keep things going for you. Some extra foam can be helpful on a shortboard and with the right rails (keep them thin) you can still dig them in and snap the board around. It is why that I am still shortboarding in my 50s.

[9AMdp]

well I'm back and the swell isn't
some little dribbly S lines, not really doing it a noclub this AM
old?  old guy boards? 
when you're young enough (or old enough )
there's only surfing and surfboards
get some

[9AMdp]

little south trickle continues
minor slides available

[9AMdp]

still trickling in
I saw one "plus size" set
didn't break on the bar but should have
must be spot working somewhere
 

[9AMdp]

down a notch

[9AMdp]

nada